Crashing water - Puerto Iguazú - March 17th - 19th

Arriving in Puerto Iguazú was a blast of hot air in the face as soon as I descended the bus. Now much further north, the coming of fall was not felt as it had during the evenings and nights in Montevideo and Gualeyguaychú. I had arrived one night later but that proved to be unimportant. There was nothing to do in this place but see the falls, unless you wanted to go onto the Brazilian or Paraguayan side. Those cities being Foz do Iguacu, and Ciudad del Este. The late being a hub of smuggled products. Meaning people only go there to buy cheap black market items, usually electronics. I needed a visa to get to both so that was not on the agenda.

This was another tourist town. The other major thing to see in Argentina aside from Glacier Perito Moreno in southern El Calafate. I have now done both! I arrived in the afternoon of the 17th. March 17th being St. Patricks day. Now I have only met a couple Irish on this entire trip, but there just happened to be one at this hostel. When I arrived he was sitting by the pool (oh yeah, there was a pool!) drinking of course, as the irish do best. After going out and exploring the town, which I soon discovered there was nothing to explore, I came back and found he hadn´t moved, but there was a different pair of people around him, the person prior must have gotten bored. Anyway I got changed and hopped in the pool immediately after resurfacing I was offered some beer by the Irishman, Ritchie was his name. The two girls were Danish and getting good fun out of his strong, gibberish of an accent and asking him why he said the work ¨fucking¨so much. He replied with ¨Its because I´m fuckin´ Irish, what you never met an Irishman before¨ They confessed that they had not. I myself confessed that my best friend was Irish and also that his father was born in the motherland and said the national word a fair bit himself. Ritchie replied ¨there ya go¨. Now Ritchie did have a considerably strong Irish accent, and I consider myself pretty good at understanding foreign accents. As could be expected he was already ¨pissed¨ and the beer did not make his accent any easier to understand, rather it made everything slurr into a jumble of indeciferable gibberish. Anyway the four of us kicked it off talking about St. Patrick´s day, its celebration and history. Ritchie explained to be a bad-ass saint that came to ireland and killed all the snakes. So now the celebration is over-intoxicating the body for one night. I admitted that it was the same culture in eastern USA and where I live in Canada. We spent the night hanging out and then went out to a restaurant for more beer and food. 

The next day I got up early and went to the National Park to see the falls. Well if I had missed tourists before by the end of the day I had had my fill once again. The park entrance was filled with buzzing foreigners struggling to get in. Suprizingly lots of Asians respectively with their large cameras. The likes of which I hadn´t seen since Machu Picchu. I casually stode in and found the tour that I paid to get on with. It was named the Great Adventure. A trip on a truck through the ¨jungle¨ for 20 minutes after which you hop on a boat and ride up the Rio Iguazú, see the falls from probably the best view point, then carry on to be immersed several times under some of the many water falls. Again, this was one of the first tours I have paid to do in a while, some are worth the money and some are not but I will admit that this, although only lasted an hour, costed 50 dollars or so, was very exciting. The truck section of the jungle was aimless, but coming of the river was great with the boat often sailing up into the air of rapids. I was at the very front so I had the best ride. The view was incredible with the falls slowly showing themselves as we came up the river very mystical. Then all of a sudden they are just everywhere in front of you, the entire field of your vision. The sounds is extremely loud next to the screams and cheers of the boat passengers. Immense clouds of mist constantly sitting overtop of the water. The endless streams of white falling water varying in width and height. This was an enchanting place. I couldn´t help imagining if you were the first indigenous tribes that came upon the place through the thick jungle greenery. There are several different trails that go around yet 2 major ones, the upper and lower. The former being from above, on top of the falls and the later being below. A boat can be taken (included in entrance fee) across the straights and to an island that sites in the middle of it all. This offered the best views in my opinion.

All in all it was impressive and exciting. Yet by the end of the day the extreme heat and sun had beaten me. The endless noise and crowds of people forcing their way closest to the railing to get the best view grew tiresome and sickening. I left a bit earlier than I was expecting to but I was exhausted! I came back to town and rested that evening and spent the entire next day lazing about (ther was a pool!) waiting for my arranged bus that evening to San Miguel de Tucuman in the Northwest where I would catch another bus 4 hours north of Tucuman to Salta to see the famed colourful mountains of Red, Green, Blue and Purple. Everyone I had met who had been has only spoken of wonder and amazement. I went expecting to encounter the same.

Fate? - Gualeyguaychú - March 15th-17th

Now, my bus from Montevideo had a destination of Fray Bentos, a town on the border of Argentina. Upon arrival I would need find my own way across the border to catch another bus at 12:35 at a highway stop just outside of Gualeyguaychú, that bus would take me for the next 15 hours up to Puerto Iguazú where I was planning on doing the only thing there is to do in Puerto Iguazú, see the Iguazú Waterfalls. One of the natural wonders of the world and coined as the widest falls in the world. I was looking forward to this major touristic hit to pull me out of my slump that had dampened my days in Montevideo.

Yet I explained this strange feeling that occupied my stomach and mind as I was headed for Fray Bentos. I was kinda hoping I could simply walk across the border.. well the bridge (Rio Uruguay separates the two countries, thus a brdige was built to connect the two sides). Although upon arrival I was told that the bridge was not close and that there was no commuting buses going across the border until the next morning, not an option, I had to arrive in under 3 hours. Thus the only option was to take a taxi for the 50 odd kilometers to where I would get the bus. This taxi turned out to cost 1600 Uruguayan pesos, thats around 75 dollar taxi fare! I didn´t have the money so I had to run 15 blocks to find an ATM, get food and rush back, time was ticking down, but I wasn´t panicking yet, I was more pissed off about the cost of the taxi, the inconvenience of it all, and the growing nervousness in my stomach. I had nothing to be nervous about, what was going on here?

Anyways I took the cab, arrived at the Gualeyguaychú bus station where I was supposed to change a piece of paper for my bus ticket at the Andesmar agency there. Upon arrival I am told there is no Andesmar agency in Gualeyguaychú... I´m thinking, ¨you have got to be kidding me¨. I get a second opinion (which is always a good idea) and he tells me that I have to go directly to the stop on the highway, there they will give it to me. A bit of relief but a part of me still feels impending danger. Somewhere in the back of my mind I was thinking ¨its not gonna work out, I´m gonna be sleeping on the damn ground tonight!¨ We arrive at the highway stop. A big store, restaurant, telephones, internet, souvenir shop, this place has EVERYTHING, minus an ATM. I only had equivalent to a few dollars left in my pocket, I literally couldn´t afford to miss this bus. As we pull in a saw the clear ¨Andesmar¨ sign on the front of the building which was a plus. I looked for an agency, nothing, I asked the people working the counter. They said ¨yeah you can get your tickets here, but we can´t print it, and there are no buses coming today, all the buses leaving Buenos Aires were called off. Only for the 16th. There was some strike called, just for that one day! I was in denial for a short period of time, making sure I had heard right, I forced all the information out of the guy that I could. He said I could call such and such a number in the morning and change it. I had no other choice but to wait the 24hours until 12:35 the night of the 17th.

I slept on the ground that night, in my tent, beside the building, farm feilds around, a strong smell of manure filled the air and a pack of sheep were contained behind a fence maybe 10 meters from my tent. I stayed up late and say the blues away, with the nightly janitor awkwardly doing his duties nearby.

I was awaken around 9am by the sound the turning of a large uncovered engine that seemed as if it was right outside my tent and .... getting louder, thus ... closer. I thought am I going to be run over by some bitter famer because I camping near his sheep, they told this place was tranquilo, no pasa nada!. I hurriedly opened the tent and looked outside, there was the farmer 5 meters away on his big green tractor. But he didn´t care at all so I lay back down. Shortly after I tried calling the such and such a number. They told me I needed to contact the people that isued the paper given. Another exterior company. Just adding another peice of paper between me and my ticket, the claimed efficiency that is added clearly isn´t worth it... I tried contacting them too, no luck. Sent them an email, no reply.

If it was not for the generosity and care of the people working at this bus stop. I would not have made it. They took it upon themselves to get me that ticket. I got to several of them by the end of that slow, painful 24 hours. They allowed me to make calls, use the internet both without charge. They were aware that I had no money and had no desire to spend more money on this unexpected stop. They worked relentlessly on the phones and by mid-day got my my ticket. I was overjoyed. Following that they offered to give me some food, for free, cause they knew I had only brought enough to sustain myself for an overnight busride. I was expecting a frugal sandwich or something. They bring out a pitcher of cold water, a bowl of breads, a full plate of rice, potatoes and meat. Again I was overjoyed... I couldn´t thank them enough, and they passed it off as nothing, ¨no no por nada, por nada!¨ I was amazed and extremely grateful. I waited until evening, reading, watching TV, writing, I became the bum of the bus stop it was hilarious. By the time night came around and the employees were off work some would come up and greet me or remark ¨whoa that guys still here!¨ I scampered onto the bus when it came thinking ¨finally¨.

I was on the road north. To the sub-tropical province of Misiones, the tri-border of Argentina, Brazil and Paraguay. The Iguazú Falls. The uneasy feeling in my stomach was non-existent.  :)

Tired... - Montevideo - March 10th - 15th

Like I said,

Upon arrival to Montevideo I was down and out. I was completely physically exhausted. Although through the next few days in Montevideo I would become mentally exhausted from a feeling of fatigue towards travelling altogether. As can be seen a considerable amount of time was spent in Montevideo, but a considerably poor mood and impartial attitude towards doing anything obviously left me doing nothing. But a part of me didn´t really mind. 

So I can´t say I saw a lot of Montevideo, nothing compared to the amount of exploring I did in cities such as Santiago or Buenos Aires. Although from what I did see it seemed to be a quaint little city. The center is considerably developped with a main road that leads straight down to the old city which is quite charming throughout the day. Around the entire old city is a sizeable port which destroys all view of the river and other sections of the city which is dissapointing. As I have described Uruguay to be one of the most tranquilo countries around the capital is similarly describable. Many parks and plazas dot the geography as well as beaches on the coast. In the evenings flocks of people go out to the parks or beaches and sit around and enjoy conversation over many matés while children play. Many fisherman dot La Rambla, a road that hugs the shore of the river and ocean all the way along the coast, and test their chances hoping to get the catch of the day. 

This was a small experience of the street. Unfortunately I was often trapped in Daniel´s apartment because of his random un-organized time scheduling and without a key to let myself out and in as I pleased I was completely dependant upon him which didn´t help my mood. They days were usually uneventful, spent sitting in front of the TV, reading or talking to friends back home, which only made me miss home more, also not helping the mood. Because I was so dependant upon Daniel and his disorganization and constant preoccupation over my ability to be independant my disposition towards him suffered. Around these days I began to seriously get tired of the constant work into starting and maintaining pointless relationships which I knew would not last or I did not care to last. This is the kind of thing that I have been going through and I think everyone goes through while travelling. After 4 months of the same crap in relationships I was just fed up and needed a break from people altogether. Likewise I was getting tired of the Uruguayan prices, being the most expensive country I have visited I can only appreciate the fact that I have saved lots of money on accomodation by camping, and Daniel (something I truly thank him for!) Nevertheless it did feel like kicking around there in Montevideo was spending a considerable amount of money on nothing in particular. 

So I looked forward to when the time would come when I would leave Montevideo and get back on the road more as a site see-er than the relaxed living that had occupied the last month or so through Uruguay and some of Argentina. I really needed that break from tourism and gringo but it has come to an end and I am glad. Time to start spending some money again and meet some other interesting tourists (whom I had hardly encountered in the last month either). I hopped on a bus on the 15th directly out of Montevideo. The bus was headed to Gualeyguaychú, just across the border on the Argentinian side, although for some reason I had an uneasy, inexplicable feeling in my stomach... 

On the Road Again - Uruguayan Coast - Mar 1st - 10th

Near the end of my stay in Melo I was beginning to get restless. With about a month of relaxed, slow-moving, slow-living lifestyle I was being to become a bit bored. I needed a change I needed some independance and personal space. So I took all my stuff and hopped onto the next bus out to the coast looking for my nice period of beach relaxation and sun. With Uruguay said to be the safest country in South America as well as one of the smallest it made me really want to try Hitchhiking, something which had been on my mind more and more of late. Arriving in Rocha I was exhausted from the lack of sleep on the bus overnight so I waited for a short 20 minute bus ride out to the ocean to a point called La Paloma.

The entire coast of Uruguay is packed with seaside resorts every 20 kilometers at least. Seemingly endless beaches run up and down the coast. Uruguay, a small country of 3 million people only, with 50 % of the populace living in the capital, Montevideo, leaves the rest of the country extremely unpopulated. Although through January and February hundreds of thousands of Argentinians and Brazilians flock to their beaches, masses of Uruguayans leave Montevideo and rent houses on the beach and stay there for at least 1 month of their vacations. January, the heigth of summer is a constant beach party of youth while February is a month of Carnaval at each different stop offering more legendary parties and music. All of this is what I missed. I did not arrive to the coast until March. By this time everyone was leaving and going back home, to their towns or to Montevideo to start school or work once again. Depending on ones preferences, I have either missed out on a great deal or was lucky. While there was no great parties I still got to know some cool people very well because of how tranquil and quiet the beach towns were!

Anyway I arrived in La Paloma feeling quite alone. I headed to the nearest campsite which lay only a few hundred meters from the beach and set up my tent. Within about 30 minutes I struck up a conversation with the neighbouring tent. (Which I strategically set up beside) The tent belonged to a Uruguayan couple, who had been camping out there all summer and working. They were attempting to live cheaply, save money and travel thereafter although Even camping can be an expensive lifestyle, with the inflated food prices, along with making 25$ in a days work of 8 to 9 hours! Anyway along with this couple was a German tourist, also camped nearby named Lucas who had spent the last week or so with this couple and was now preparing to move on. I did not like Lucas at first, thinking him rather annoying and out spoken although. The next 2 days were spent here in La Paloma with these 3 people. Most of the weather was aweful, serious pouring rain throughout most of it leaving me wondering how long I would last this lifestyle if the weather persisted. Luckily it did not and last day there the sun came out in full and Lucas and I spent the day surfing. My first try surfing was very interesting but seemingly impossible. Seeing a glance into the surf life was great. Camping out nights. Waking up to the beach and often sun. Surfing, Swimming, Working, Playing music. So basic, so relaxing, no worries. The 2 nights in La Paloma were spent eating considerably good food, playing decent music until early in the morning, drinking wine and beer and smoking. Lucas had a mini travel guitar, I had my guitar and we had 2 harmonicas. We had all the ingredientes for goodness. On the 3rd day Lucas and I went onto Cabo Polonio, a bit earlier than I was expecting although I sacrificed my plans to have a companion. We took a bus to Cabo, which was only 40 kilometers up the highway. I postponed hitchhiking once again to my disappointment. While hitchhiking in Uruguay would be the best, the buses cost lots per kilometer although the distances are never far so the amounts are never a lot.  Willpower is needed to hitchhike over turning down a 5 dollar bus. Although for me it is more about the experience and doing it rather than potential money saved.

Lucas and I arrived in Cabo after a short bus ride. Cabo is another point up the coast. Technically a national park although over time a small community has grown inside the park, probably numbering to be a few hundred permanent residents. There are no roads in the town, only dirt paths, no electricity other than rare solar panels. To get to the town, people pay to get a large 4 wheel drive truck to take them 7 kilometers out to the coast along a bumpy dirt road. Upon arrival I was smitten by the place. The place was absolute paradise. Sitting on a peninsula with spectacular beaches as far as the eye can see going north and south. In land there is only forest and sand dunes. The houses are small and basic. I was told before arriving that there would be not hot water, no place to buy food or anything although it was not this extreme it was still very interesting. With absolutely nothing to do throughout the day tourists are forced to relax about all day take in the sun and ride or attempt to ride the glorious waves that ride in all day from both sides. With nothing to do and trapped in a small hostel I met many cool people. The hostel was small and thus everyone got to know everyone, each night we would cook meals together and go outside and sit around the fire and just hang out. The age varied greatly me being the youngest, the oldest being around 50 but we all got on greatly no one pulling age or experience on anyone. I could have stayed another 4 nights there in Cabo or a week although I went into the place with little money and with no where to get out more had little option but to leave. On the way out Lucas went back south and I went north with a guy I met at the hostel, A guy from Belgium named Bram, a great guy who I knew was gonna be a good friend as soon as we met talking around the fire. Bram had come all the way from Ushuaia to Buenos Aires hitchhiking. Who better to break the curve with than with someone who has been doing it for the last several months.

Anyway before long we got a ride up to the next stop to Punta del Diablo (Devils Point). We got in late in the evening and found that the camping place was far away and being both exhausted we looked for a free place to set the tents for the night behind some trees. Anyway beside a soccer field behind a private house that was currently unoccupied we set the tents. These places on the atlantic coast are practically ghost towns throughout the fall and winter, then for around 3 or 4 months in spring and summer they reopen and house the craziest parties of the area. Punta del diablo is full of nice houses for rent but by the time we were there it was practically deserted, many hostels and stores simply close down and leave for the long off-season. Anyway camped out behind this presently unoccupied cabin in a copse of trees we put the tents. Once done we greedily sat down next to the house, in a spot half seen from the road and began to eat and drink our frugal dinner. Within 10 minutes a police truck rolled up with a large spot-light shining around and next thing we know it was on us! They must have recieved a complaint from a neighbour about figures making noise in the dark and disturbing the dogs and what-not. So we casually stood up and approached them, Bram led the way and started the conversation explaining in feigned broken spanish (Bram speaks perfect spanish after living in Spain for 2 years) about how we were foreigners. ¨Hello, no . spanish .   Belgium . Canada . Arrived Late . Cant find camping . I stood beside dumbfounded not sure what to do, probably ended up coming off as a normal stupid foreigner. To my suprise the cops were fine with it!   ¨Tents over there . Dinner . Ham . Cheese . Bread ¨ The cop then replies in slow comprehensive spanish with a waggling of the finger ¨No Fi - re¨ We replied reassuringly that we were not planning on making a fire and they (3 police officers) contentedly squeezed back into their pick-up with a amiable ¨Chao Amigos¨ to finalize it all. As they pulled away I was not sure how to continue, I was absolutely shocked and disorriented as if a bright light had suddenly flashed on. We went back to the same spot, kept on drinking the beer and finshed the sandwiches laughing about the event. Bram asked why I had been scared, for in truth I was rattled. I explained to him the relation and perspective that is held towards police officers from where I live in Canada making me always a bit worried about police taking advantage of youth to back them into corners. We talked for the next hour about policing and our various experiences and run-ins with the law whatever they may be or wherever they may have taken place. We concluded that the Uruguayan police in general were extremely lax! That traffic police kick back in a chair and sip at their mate on the side of the highway. Not to mention this was off-season in Punta del Diablo, imagine what they deal with throughout the summer. Streets full of drunk or drugged-up youths stummbling all over the streets day and night. They absolute shit they deal with probably made this basic trespassing offence nothing. They didn´t check us for anything, or any of the luggage that we had with us. This was my first and hopefully only police encounter in south america and it was a good one. It could have been much worse had I been in another country down here. Chile police are famed to very strict, while Argentina are said to low class and corrupt. Thats not even to note upon sure corruption in countries such as Brazil or Venezuela where they will stop a bus and simply search you and take what they want with rifles at their hips (A true story I heard from Venezuela). Anyway the next day Bram and I awoke and took to the beach, we spent the day there, relaxing and the afternoon walked a few kilometers up the coast to a National Park right beside the town. Parque Nacional Santa Teresa is large and has a considerable length of beautiful beaches as well as free camping. Upon waking up and taking down the tent he hit the highway again to fail all day at getting a ride, nevertheless there was some good musical moments singing on the desolate highway expanse, another good thing to have the guitar for! We ended up taking a bus for mid-afternoon, Bram went all the way to Montevideo and I went to Punta del Este, all the way back south. The major resort, the Miami of Uruguay. The point where on one side of the peninsula is Rio de la Plata beach and the other side is the ocean waves. It was nice to see the change in context although I would not spend a summer there let alone a week. It is too crowded and way to expensive. After 2 nights more or less alone staying in a hostel (because there is no camping) I took to the highway and after a few hours of walking and resting I got a ride with some Argentines. I stopped halfway to my destination to see go to an art museum and chill on the beach then got back on the highway again. This time a couple who were staying in the same hostel as me in Punta del Este stopped and took me to Piriapolis where I stayed in good campsite for one night, more relaxing and beaches the next day and for the afternoon a fisherman picked me up and took me to Atlantida. All of these stops are around 30 to 40 kilometers away from each other.

Atlantida is a small cute community where flocks of people from Montevideo go for the weekend because of how close and accessible it is. I did not want to pay the night or pay a bus to Montevideo so I waited til sun went down and walked along the beach until I found a good spot to put the tent. Along a small trail between the beach and the road was a little protective grove, perfect for the tent and not easily seen from the beach. The full moon was out and I walked down the the beach with the guitar and ran into some fisherman set up on the beach. We chatted for some time before I took to sleep. That morning I awoke early and hit the road again and quickly got a ride to Montevideo, where I  took a bus to Daniel´s apartment. Luckily he was there and awake and I was in and passed out on the couch without any problems. After 10 days of being on the road, changing places every day or 2 and walking kilometers carrying the heavy bag I was beat!

The coastal experience was very relaxing and enjoyable. I finally got my relaxing period on the beach that everyone including myself would be disappointed if I had not done. Got a bit of a tan which also is necissary in South American summer. I finally got into hitchhiking which was awesome, I may not have saved a huge amount of money although it was still fun! I spent several nights on end alone and was not abated by the lonliness which I had not expected would have been a problem for me throughout this trip but, to my surprise had a huge effect upon me throughout the beginning. I was becoming more independently capable. Being able to sleep, eat and get from point A to B without having to sleep in hostels eat in restaurants and take buses everywhere. This is what I have been working towards for the last 4 months straight with this outcome in mind. I was very satisfied with where I was at coming into Montevideo.

It was very cool seeing such a large amount of the coast and how much it changes from part to part. It seemed the Atlantic coast was much more frantic and full of youth similar to the crashing waves that hits all along the beaches of the east. While in the south, on the River the water is much calmer, and it is more communities or family abodes or vacation dwellings. At any rate I am surprised there are not more Americans and Canadians that travel down here for the summer the entire coast is beautiful beach all bays and peninsulas. Great spots for surfing and mild swimming. Warm ocean water. Extremely nice people and safe land. I believe people avoid South America in general because there is a general idea rather an ignorance to what South America really is. An idea is formulated, somehow, that South America is extremely dangerous everywhere, It is all underdevelopped and indigenous poverty, this simply is not the truth. Obviously if you have read any of the previous blogs regarding Chile or Argentina one would understand this to be the truth. That being said I have little doubt in saying these 3 countries of topic are the most developped and safest of the continent. I believe Brazil has its development (it is currently the highest currency in the continent) although the simple fact that crime is considerably higher there wards many people off, while that it is true that crime is higher in Brazil it is an enormous country and as always it depends on where you go and what you do. Everyone I have met has told me splendid things of Brazil, tales of falling in love with the land and the cities! At any rate I am presently falling in love with Uruguay in a way. It is a very nice country and very relaxed. There is large amount of field and farm land in land and the people only become nicer and nicer the further in you go! It is a flat country full of green palm trees and fields, rolling hills and farms. It is extremely similar to Argentina and thus famed arrogance of the Argentines naturally talk about Uruguay simply as apart of Argentina, nothing more. They do they same things, similar culture, practically the same accent yet I have noticed a difference. There is a different feel about this land and people than in Argentina, at least parts of Argentina for it is also an extremely large country.

Anyways I am growing tired here at my perch writing this endless blog... Long live Uruguay, Long live Forlan