Previously in Iguazú, I met a couple that had been to Salta and had reccomended renting a car as the best means of exploring the surrounding beauty of valleys of colourful rock walls and strange eroded formations. I told the couple that to do that I would have to go around my hostel upon arrival to Salta city and persuade others into joining my quest. I was not expecting to find the partner on the same bus ride, before even arriving in Salta.
Chad and I were on the same route, a route that included an 8 hour waiting time in Tucumán, a city 4 hours south of Salta, at the dead of night before we could continue. Thus after spending around 30 hours in transit together simply to arrive at our destination we understood what the other was all about and had agreed that renting a car would be the most exciting means of passing the time.
Salta, sitting in the furthest reaches of the north-west of Argentina, along with Jujuy are two provinces that don´t have the nicest cities although contain a certain charm that attracts a large number of tourists. It is extremely hot through peak summer here and for that reason am glad for the time that I have arrived. Less heat, less rain, less tourists. The people who live in these areas have less work and less money. Being back in the mountains and closer to Bolivia there is less development and clearly a stronger line of indigenous native descent. The people are extremely friendly and culture is much more clearly defined. In Salta the Peñas are the most common place. Peñas are restaurants/bars where people gather to eat and drink and play the traditional folklore music of the Gauchos (cowboys). The nights start at around 10 and only get better the later it gets. Over a few hours it becomes a jammin meddly of Guitar, Acordian and Piano with the ever powerful and emotional spanish lyrics to be heard overtop. Chad and I spent the first day exploring the city, booking a car (for the following morning) and for the evening went to one of these Peñas. We ate a feast of meat, veggies, empanadas and local wine with quality music until past midnight. We went to bed exhausted and content, ready for the exploration with the car for the next 3 days.
Surrounding the area are old windy roads through the mountains that lead to great quality vineyards which cover the flat plains between mountains. Likewise there are large valleys of endlessly green mountains of several thousand meters leading into desolate craggy valleys of rock that soar rigidly into the air all over the dry floor. Essentially there is a great amount of natural beauty to see within a few hours of driving. On our itinerary was to go west 200 kilometers day one. South 200 kilometers to Cafayate day two. and back north 200 kilometers to Salta day three. Day one started extremely foggy and with rain. Upon checking the weather forecast it read that the next week would be that way. Slightly dissapointed we departed. The weather proved to stay this way for only part of the way. Climbing up windy, narrow roads, dense fog all around we could only imagine the spectacular view that could have been seen had it been clear. The roads were free of traffic and life, other than the odd other tourist who likewise had chosen this day to begin. As we climbed up out of the valley we also climbed out of the fog, now up at over 2000 meters blue skes could be seen. There was hope! Views proved to spectacular from here on out of colourful red shades of mountains and flat plateaus of green vegetation with animals and birds grazing about the fields. Random ruins of constuctions or the odd tourist market would dot the side of the highway, literally in the middle of no where, selling trinkets and bags of all the spices you could imagine. By the time we got to Cachi, mid day, it was extremely hot, full of sun and blue skies. We met 2 women who went to Cachi by tour and wanted to go from Cachi to Cafayate, we agreed that they could squeeze into our small Renault Clio at their own expense, plus it helped pay for the rental! Bonus. We spent the same afternoon driving around the area of Cachi simply because the town was boring. We took gravel roads through farms and field, weaving our way further into the mountain. The scenery was spectacular. Colourful mountains with greens valleys at their feet.
Car rental in many ways, I think, is the most experiencial tourism. Choosing where you want to go and when you want to stop. Taking what ever roads you choose, usually being roads that buses and traffic do not traverse too often. This is where you see the true towns and people. Their lifestyle and living conditions. This was the case on day 2. The drive from Cachi to Cafayate, 2 relatively touristic towns although the road connecting them is hardly ever taken. Here is where we would drive by homes and communities of mud brick houses, isolated plain churches on the peaks of hills on the horizon. Guachos riding horses down the side of the road. Farmers leading donkeys, old men on bicycles for lack of a better means of transportation. These towns are only a few hundred kilometers from Salta city yet they feel completely isolated, it could be on the other side of the world to these people. Upon arrival to Cafayate and being thrust back into wealth and tourism we would smitten by where were coming from. The scenery as we neared Cafayate was absolutely stupendous. Driving through the Valley of the Arrows endless arrow head shaped rock formations surge out of the ground all at 45 degree angles. It felt as if we had landed on a different planet, on Mars or something. It was hard to drive with so much to look at with out careening off the road. We stopped constantly!
Cafayate, a small, cute city surrounded and occupied by vineyards. This valley where this community sites is devoted to making good wines, and they do a damn good job. I got my wine tours in here and much cheaper than in Mendoza. Many being only a few dollars or even free! 40 minutes of history, information and good wines, not bad! They claimed the location is extremely ideal for wine because of the height above sea level. Being between 1000 and 2000 meters above sea level the sun is strong throughout the day and cool at night. This apparently creates a distinct flavour in the grapes which leads to unique wines. So we went to several wine tours through the afternoon. Made dinner in the hostel where the girls were staying and Chad and I headed several Km out of town to our cheap campsite next to the mountains. From there we could climb up the slopes and have a fantastic view of the entire city and surrounding valley.
We awoke in the morning for the third day. Picked up the girls and started our way back to Salta. Back on the paved highway. Within a few Kms we got to the Valley of the Shells. Windy roads through irregularly eroded rocks all shades of rad and brown was definitely the most memorable section of the trip. I pity anyone who took that road at night. It is impossible to explain the physical look of these rocks. We were once again on a different planet although a different one from the previous day. Only photos can give one an idea of the image.
Arriving back in Salta we were all completely exhausted. Chad and I said farewell to the girls and headed to the hostel to rest. After going through a silly communication breakdown with the car rental company we finally returned the car the next day completely dirty thus they would have no idea if there were any scratches or nicks on the car, as I´m sure there were. They hardly even checked the vehicle to make sure it was all good. Anyway Cahd and I killed time through the afternoon until his bus departure back to Buenos Aires. After Chad left and I was alone again walking back to the hostel I randomly befriended some Artesanos (people that work in the street making and selling hand maid jewellry or trinkets. I spent the next few hours with them sitting in the park and learning some of their skills and lifestyle which was neat. One of the guys was Colombian and had been travelling around South America and stays lengths of periods in places when he needs to and sells Artesania bracelets among other things.
The next day I tried hitch hikiing to San Salvador de Jujuy for several hours with no success which was annoying considering it is only a few hours north of Salta. I gave up and took the bus to Jujuy where I had no plan other than to go visit the spectacular valleys and mountains that sit between the city and Bolivia.
Car rental in many ways, I think, is the most experiencial tourism. Choosing where you want to go and when you want to stop. Taking what ever roads you choose, usually being roads that buses and traffic do not traverse too often. This is where you see the true towns and people. Their lifestyle and living conditions. This was the case on day 2. The drive from Cachi to Cafayate, 2 relatively touristic towns although the road connecting them is hardly ever taken. Here is where we would drive by homes and communities of mud brick houses, isolated plain churches on the peaks of hills on the horizon. Guachos riding horses down the side of the road. Farmers leading donkeys, old men on bicycles for lack of a better means of transportation. These towns are only a few hundred kilometers from Salta city yet they feel completely isolated, it could be on the other side of the world to these people. Upon arrival to Cafayate and being thrust back into wealth and tourism we would smitten by where were coming from. The scenery as we neared Cafayate was absolutely stupendous. Driving through the Valley of the Arrows endless arrow head shaped rock formations surge out of the ground all at 45 degree angles. It felt as if we had landed on a different planet, on Mars or something. It was hard to drive with so much to look at with out careening off the road. We stopped constantly!
Cafayate, a small, cute city surrounded and occupied by vineyards. This valley where this community sites is devoted to making good wines, and they do a damn good job. I got my wine tours in here and much cheaper than in Mendoza. Many being only a few dollars or even free! 40 minutes of history, information and good wines, not bad! They claimed the location is extremely ideal for wine because of the height above sea level. Being between 1000 and 2000 meters above sea level the sun is strong throughout the day and cool at night. This apparently creates a distinct flavour in the grapes which leads to unique wines. So we went to several wine tours through the afternoon. Made dinner in the hostel where the girls were staying and Chad and I headed several Km out of town to our cheap campsite next to the mountains. From there we could climb up the slopes and have a fantastic view of the entire city and surrounding valley.
We awoke in the morning for the third day. Picked up the girls and started our way back to Salta. Back on the paved highway. Within a few Kms we got to the Valley of the Shells. Windy roads through irregularly eroded rocks all shades of rad and brown was definitely the most memorable section of the trip. I pity anyone who took that road at night. It is impossible to explain the physical look of these rocks. We were once again on a different planet although a different one from the previous day. Only photos can give one an idea of the image.
Arriving back in Salta we were all completely exhausted. Chad and I said farewell to the girls and headed to the hostel to rest. After going through a silly communication breakdown with the car rental company we finally returned the car the next day completely dirty thus they would have no idea if there were any scratches or nicks on the car, as I´m sure there were. They hardly even checked the vehicle to make sure it was all good. Anyway Cahd and I killed time through the afternoon until his bus departure back to Buenos Aires. After Chad left and I was alone again walking back to the hostel I randomly befriended some Artesanos (people that work in the street making and selling hand maid jewellry or trinkets. I spent the next few hours with them sitting in the park and learning some of their skills and lifestyle which was neat. One of the guys was Colombian and had been travelling around South America and stays lengths of periods in places when he needs to and sells Artesania bracelets among other things.
The next day I tried hitch hikiing to San Salvador de Jujuy for several hours with no success which was annoying considering it is only a few hours north of Salta. I gave up and took the bus to Jujuy where I had no plan other than to go visit the spectacular valleys and mountains that sit between the city and Bolivia.
Hi,
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Thanks!
Rent a Car en Salta